Review: Four Seasons, Seychelles

In a country charging ahead with shiny new luxury openings, I figured it was time to revisit one of the OGs of the Seychelles—none other than the original Four Seasons. Yes, folks, once upon a time, you could visit an entire country and only stumble upon a single Four Seasons. I know, shocking.  But fear not, because now there’s two.  This one, conveniently located on the mainland, is currently one of the most popular options in the Seychelles.  Let’s see how we get on.

Getting there

Four Seasons Seychelles is a convenient 35-minute drive from the airport, taking you through scenic, winding and bum clinchingly tight roads. Upon arrival, we were greeted by what can only be described as an army of staff, including what felt like the entire management team, who promptly doused us in a firehose of information, like it was that movie It Follows and they had to pass it on or suffer some grim fate.

We opted for a walk to the beach while our daughter slept because, as any parent knows, waking up your sleeping child is worse than enrolling in a free crocodile wrestling course.  The staff briefed us as if we were embarking on a tactical mission similar to killing Bin Laden.  It really had me worried about how difficult this property would be to navigate, but it was an easy stroll down to the beach.

Setting

Even so, I won’t downplay the challenges of getting around this property. It’s steep—like, “Did I accidentally sign up for a hiking retreat?” steep. But after conquering One&Only Kea Island with a baby in a stroller, I practically feel like a professional mountain climber. If breakdancing can be an Olympic sport, navigating resorts like this with a stroller should definitely qualify. But first, let’s talk about the overall setting. Nestled on the southwestern coast of Mahé, in the stunningly secluded Petite Anse Bay, the resort is surrounded by lush tropical hills and dense jungle, with white-sand beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters that practically beg for relaxation.

The beach is absolutely breathtaking with those iconic Seychellian rocks dominating the landscape and super soft sand dominating your toes. You’re either down by the beach, or hoping to catch a glimpse of it.

All beaches in Seychelles are public, so while people can enter the property to access the beach, they aren’t allowed to use the facilities. Most places with public access tend to discourage visitors, but this beach still attracts plenty of admirers.

The rooms are built right into the cliffside, and unlike other resorts, such as Kea Island, it actually works well. It has the same natural, chic vibe as the original One&Only Mandarina, blending harmoniously with the environment.

Oh, and one last thing: bring your bug spray. Mosquitoes here are not playing around.

Facilities

Most of the facilities are, unsurprisingly, down by the beach.  After all, it would be rather weird if the beach volleyball court, kayaks, paddleboards, snorkels and dive centre were in the hills.

There are two exceptions: the gym, which is in one of the strangest places I’ve ever seen, as you have to go down some stairs to a restaurant and then climb another set of stairs to discover it.  As if going to the gym wasn’t hard enough, they turned it into an Escape Room just to get there.  The gym is actually very spacious, featuring a dedicated Pilates room, a large strength training area, and a separate cardio room.  There was some influencer dominating the area with their camera so I decided not to embarrass myself any further and actually use it, but if I did, I’m sure I would have thighs like Godzilla.

The other is the spa.  Having opened in 2009, the property does show its age in places.  The beach is the showcase, but the rest of the facilities are somewhat basic.  However, the location of the spa is epic.

The spa is perched on a hilltop, offering sweeping views over the bay, ocean, and beach—truly a stunning location. It hangs dramatically over the cliff, creating this epic view that is immediately ruined by all the merchandise scattered everywhere, like you walked into a tourist trap by mistake.  The spa itself is relatively small, with only five treatment rooms and no additional facilities like saunas or steam rooms.

Back to the beach, this is where the kids club is (more on that later), the main pool, a few restaurants and the large, infinity pool, that sits back and overlooks the crystal-clear waters of Petite Anse Bay.  There’s also a beach bar for cocktails and light bites. The main pool is located next to the main restaurant, which is conveniently close to the kids’ club, making it easy for families to balance meals and activities. There’s also a boutique for some quick shopping. The resort has a resident marine biologist, and just a week ago, they were swimming with whale sharks, the lucky so-and-so. . Additionally, there’s a large freshwater pond near the beach where kids can enjoy catch-and-release activities.

Other than La Cigale, every property in the Seychelles suffered from miserable Internet connectivity and Four Seasons was no different.

Room

The room setup came with a few surprises, starting with a cot that I specifically didn’t request. However, there were some thoughtful touches for the kids, including homemade treats shaped like turtles and seahorses, along with fish-shaped cookies. The resort also provided a tropical treat of the day, which was granola-inspired, and for drinks, they had organic strawberry milk for the girls, champagne (with a bottle of non-alcoholic champagne for me), and refreshing coconut drinks. These small details added a nice, personalized touch to the room, even if some of the arrangements weren’t exactly what I had asked for.

The rooms are scattered around the hills, with the best giving you the best view of the beach.  Getting to/from your room is either calling a buggy, which was generally very efficient, or

The rooms are fine, but nothing particularly special—definitely better options out there.  The biggest issue is that all the one bedroom options vary only in view.  That could be considered a good thing if you stayed in a base room category as you’re getting a bargain, especially because the total square meterage is excellent.  However, none of the rooms are suites, they are simply a bathroom and bedroom, which is not ideal in our case.  We stayed in Ocean Hill View #112, and it was decent. It didn’t feel old, but also not exactly new. There’s no living room—just a bedroom and bathroom—but stepping down into the private area reveals a nice ocean view. To the left is a shaded sofa bed, to the right is the room, and ahead is a large deck with two sun chairs, an umbrella, and a pool. There’s also a covered balcony area with a table and chairs for shaded views. The pool is a good size, but unfortunately freezing.

The outdoor space is huge, including an outdoor shower by the pool, but I’d have preferred more indoor living space, especially when the kids were napping and we were stuck outside with the bugs. They don’t have many family rooms, so finding the right fit can be tough. The rooms are private and surrounded by greenery, but some are visibly exposed from the spa in the pool area, which could be awkward.

The bathroom offers ample storage with a walk-in wardrobe and two closets. A nice touch was the painted fence by the pool to keep kids safe—it blended well with the design. The views of the rocks and the crashing waves were beautiful, and the large glass window beside the bathtub overlooking the pool was a highlight.  You can often hear the waves from the room.

There are 28 residences in the hills, but only 8 are available for rental.  The fact that you really need a two bedroom and there are so few available, and they come with such a significant price increase, means there are better options out there. Only the top two suites have direct beach access, but they are over $15,000/n.

There were some minor annoyances: loud creaking floorboards that made it hard to move around quietly, light switches that didn’t seem to make sense, and the overall sense that the room could use a refresh—apparently, they’re considering a refurbishment as nothing much has changed since it opened in 2009. I also wish there had been a mini gate at the stairs to fully enclose the room for the kids. Overall, it’s an okay setup, but not without its flaws.

Food / Service

The dining options nclude a range of cuisines. ZEZ serves as the main restaurant, offering breakfast and Asian dishes in a relaxed yet refined setting. Koi, located within the ZEZ restaurant, offers Japanese dining, with a focus on fresh sushi and other Japanese-inspired dishes. Kannal offers an interesting mix of Italian and local Creole cuisine.  Lastly, Steak Shack provides a more casual, outdoor dining experience by the beach, perfect for a laid-back meal with ocean views.

The food varied between good and excellent.  Lunch was probably my nemesis, as the menu was so heavy it was hard to choose what to eat without suffering a lead stomach for the rest of the day.  So naturally, I had pasta, with an absolutely delicious beef ragu that was hard to avoid ordering again.  Koi was a highlight. We opted to sit outside, as an air-conditioned room isn’t why I came to the Seychelles. Some dishes really stood out, like the tuna truffle nigiri and the sublime beef teriyaki, though it’s a shame the menu is limited to just a single page.

Breakfast is spread across two rooms: one with fruit, which wasn’t the best selection I’ve ever seen, and another with cheese, pastries, bread, cereals, yoghurts, and some meats. There’s also an à la carte menu with eggs and sweet treats, plus a pancake station. Someone even came around with a special of the day, which was like a pancake taco filled with berries. However, the service could be slow; my Greek yoghurt took so long to arrive I thought they’d flown it in from Greece, and they were out of raspberries and strawberries. Prices for food are extremely high, with something as basic as pasta nearing £60. Birds were constantly circling the tables at lunch, eager for bread.

Steak Shake is a small, outdoor-only spot by the beach.  With sunset so early, it could even be considered romantic if my children were not there running around breaking things.  With the strong wind you could almost feel the waves crashing nearby.  A beautiful spot for sunset.  For a steak specialist restaurant, though, it was just okay — they had spoiled me in Koi, their Japanese restaurant, the night before, which was still not as impressive as the wonderful experience at Waldorf Astoria Platte Island.

Asked for no onions, and it came out smothered in onions. The waiter quickly noticed and apologised, then mentioned the chef would come by to chat. Sure enough, the chef came out, full of apologies, which is always made up of 99% cringe, 1% devastation and lifelong trauma.  I was starting to wonder if they were going to kill themselves in shame.  It always feels pointless and deeply embarrassing for the chef to come out – just like someone admitting they slept with me.

The service overall was mostly good. The buggy taxi service was efficient and made it easy to get around the property. During breakfast, someone even took the kids off our hands to give us a break, which was a nice touch. However, there was no turndown service on the first night, though we were given free coconut water at the beach, which was a pleasant surprise. Zoltan, one of the waiters at the restaurant, was great, and the staff at the kids’ club went above and beyond, bringing water, towels, and toys while we enjoyed the pool. Though the personalisation wasn’t on the same level as at other properties, like the Waldorf, where allergies and preferences are noted everywhere, a lot of the staff knew our names, which was impressive for a short, two-night stay. By the second morning, they had already prepped my Greek yoghurt in advance at breakfast.

The one major frustration was the checkout process. We were told departure was at 10:30, though I questioned it as 11:30. Despite rushing through breakfast, they later corrected themselves, which left us feeling a bit unnecessarily stressed. All in all, the food and service were good, but not without some room for improvement.

Kids friendly

The kids-friendly facilities at Four Seasons Seychelles are well thought out and offer a good range of activities. The Kids Club features an indoor area stocked with plenty of toys, a TV, and even a PS5 for gaming. Outdoors, there’s a completely shaded pool surrounded by sand, where kids can learn to swim, along with a small playground featuring two tiny slides. The club is open from 9 AM to 7 PM with no closure for lunch, a big improvement compared to other resorts like the Waldorf.  Most importantly, the staff were absolutely lovely and really focused on keeping everyone engaged.

Additionally, there’s a Surf Shack, where children can learn how to surf, and a fish pond where they can participate in feeding the large fish. The resort also offers a daily activity schedule, though most of the activities are fitness-based, catering more to older children and adults.

The Good

• Food
• Service
• Kids Club
• Service
• Gym

The Bad

• Outdated rooms and a lack of suites

The Luxurious

• That beach

Conclusion

For me, the biggest issue is an intangible point.  It isn’t that the rooms aren’t the best, or the facilities need a bit of an upgrade – both true.  It’s that I don’t like being somewhere I feel trapped to my room.  I don’t want to call a buggy every time I want to go somewhere, I want to just be able to leave without hassle.  We prefer to walk, but walking here really is an extremely hassle – even though we managed it.  It just felt like a safari lodge, but with kids – you go to your room around 7pm and you feel a bit trapped there.  This is where the freedom of their sister property shines, albeit everything here is better with exception of the room.

The resort was running at around 50% occupancy, which seems to reflect how much the lack of direct flights has impacted tourism in Seychelles—a trend I’ve noticed throughout this trip. Hopefully, new resorts can help turn things around. Despite the beauty of the location, I couldn’t shake the feeling of being trapped, especially since staying on a hill meant relying heavily on buggies to get around. It’s that sense of being somewhere perfectly pleasant, yet knowing it just isn’t for me. I think it’s a mix of feeling confined and not really loving the room that added to the overall disconnect.

Still, that’s clearly a very personal thing.  I think overall the property does need a refurb, but there are more good things here than bad.  It’s worth a shout if you want to be on the mainland….at least, until Cheval Blanc opens any month now.