Review: Segera, Kenya

Segera Lodge, nestled in the heart of Laikipia, Kenya, sits on a private wildlife conservancy that used to be a cattle ranch.  Once overgrazed and ecologically depleted, Laikipia is now on the road to recovery, with Segera playing a crucial role in supporting local wildlife and restoring habitats.

Segera feels less like a traditional safari lodge and more like an art gallery-meets-conservation centre.  The lodge emphasizes art, featuring works from African and international artists, many with themes centred on nature and sustainability.  The art is everywhere, from sculptures tucked into the gardens to exhibitions housed in converted stables.  Segera is also guided by its “4Cs” principles—Conservation, Community, Culture, and Commerce.  Every guest’s stay supports projects like solar farms, schools, and not to mention a female anti-poaching rangers academy.  The lodge is also working on a reforestation project, planting 2 million trees to restore degraded land, improve soil health, and help offset carbon emissions.

On arrival, the welcome was warm, with the staff ticking all the right boxes for a seamless experience.  However, the room itself was basic.  It had privacy, thanks to the surrounding garden, and the balcony overlooked a watering hole—a perfect spot for some peaceful wildlife viewing.  But there were practical frustrations: hot water took its sweet time (about five minutes), and the bath seemed to require three months’ notice to be ready.

Unfortunately, the food was forgettable.  Lunch was basic, and sundowners were even more so, though they did remember our drink preferences.  The overall food quality was basic, and the lack of menus didn’t help.  Portions were small, but maybe that was an act of mercy.

The staff were warm and attentive, led by a genuinely engaging general manager who previously worked at North Island. He was an absolute pleasure to chat with, as were the owners, who frequently mingled with guests, further enhancing the lodge’s inviting and friendly atmosphere.  One standout moment was when the kitchen staff sang for my dad’s birthday—three weeks late, mind you—which left him thoroughly embarrassed, which made it all the more delicious.  The service was top-notch.

Segera’s setting is undeniably stunning, surrounded by lush gardens complete with waterfalls, ponds, and a non-heated pool that offered a tranquil escape.  The lodge also has a charming art centre, boutique, and stables converted into art spaces, adding to its unique character.  Facilities include a small but well-equipped gym, steam room, and treatment rooms.  Convenience is another strong point—the airstrip is the closest I’ve ever seen to a resort, just a minute away.

Wildlife sightings included lions mating, elephants, giraffes, zebras, and the highlight—a cheetah with five cubs.  However, the safari vehicle’s design was annoying me, with a windscreen that doesn’t lower, so we found ourselves awkwardly ducking to get a clear view.  Night drives are an option on this private land, but on ours, we saw exactly one animal.  Not quite the Nat Geo experience you may be hoping for.

The Good

• Service
• It feels like an oasis in the middle of the desert

The Bad

• Food
• Basic facilities
• Room
• Lack of wildlife

The Luxurious

• Focus on local conservation
• In a malaria-free zone

Conclusion

Even my dad, on his first trip to Africa, declared early on that he’d seen everything he wanted and had no plans to return. I’ve turned him into a bit of a twat.  Or maybe it’s the other way around.  Chicken or egg situation, really.

I don’t want to take a dump on somewhere that does so much for the local community, but it is ultimately a luxury safari lodge that doesn’t reach the levels of luxury of the competition.  Segera has its strengths—its beautiful setting, friendly service, and solid facilities stand out—but it does fall short in areas like food and room comfort.  Ultimately, the wildlife hasn’t returned enough to appease my appetite for endless animal gore.  Segera isn’t the best choice for first-time safari-goers. It’s more suited to those who are particularly cautious about malaria or want a gentle introduction to the safari experience.  The property is undeniably beautiful, charming, and unique, but it’s also fairly basic, and the wildlife just isn’t at a point to make it a must-visit destination.  That said, people used to say the same about Thornybush, and it’s made huge strides in less than a decade.  Maybe Segera will have its moment, too—just not today.