Review: Singita Ebony, South Africa

If your last meal was a plate of deep-fried orgasms, then whatever comes next, no matter how good, just can’t live up to that.  Not even Lucky Charms.  The issue with this review isn’t that Singita Ebony isn’t a fantastic property—it’s just that I came here directly after experiencing Waterside Lodge, which is one of the best. With only a 15-minute flight between the two, comparisons are likely.  With my memory being so poor and clinging to the last shiny thing I saw, comparisons are inevitable.

This was my second stint at Singita Ebony; the first felt like it was just yesterday, but nope, it was all the way back in 2019.  Did anyone else just blink and miss a couple of years there in the early 2020s, or was it just me marooned on my sofa? Anyway, I heard they shut down for a large refurb and spruced the place up, so naturally, I had to come and check it out myself.

Setting

Nestled in South Africa’s Sabi Sand Reserve, Singita Ebony Lodge is a quaint spot, hugged by ancient trees and parked along the Sand River—which, at this time of year, resembles more of a sand pit with the occasional hippo pit stop.

Now, about Waterside—yes, we’re circling back, but this time it’s to spotlight Singita.  Here’s the lowdown: Singita Ebony offers over 45,000 acres of private land in the Sabi Sands.  You might hear it referred to as Singita Sabi Sands because just a short stroll away—really, just stretch your legs a bit—is Singita Boulders. They’ve got a similar setup over in Kruger with Singita Lebombo and Sweni being neighbours.  It’s the same service, food, land, and yes, even the animal sightings will be the same, but the accommodation and facilities differ.  Think of it like choosing any of the recent Marvel movies – they’re exactly the same with differing special effects.

With all that private land, you get the VIP wildlife experience without the endless safari traffic jam and other lodges coming to shit on your zen parade.  The only party crashers allowed are from Londolozi, thanks to a courteous vehicle swap deal. This policy led to my personal safari highlight—a leopard chillin’ with her cubs. It’s hard to top that, unless you’ve been binge-watching David Attenborough for more than three minutes.

Sightings

Just like my last safari at Duba Plains, where lions are as elusive as a humble influencer, Sabi Sands is supposed to be crawling with leopards. Well, they seem to be getting the memo about staying elusive. Not that I didn’t spot any, but there was a time when the only place you wouldn’t see them was on your departing flight—and even then, it paid to double-check your seat.  Still, there is a lot of wildlife and I came back from every game drive with at least one great encounter.

I snagged a private guide who seemed to just about tolerate my presence, putting him in esteemed company alongside my parents, kids, and wife. I always opt for a private guide so I can indulge my macabre fascination with nature’s rougher moments, though sadly, poorly timed luck turned all the animals into vegetarians. Last time, though, I hit the jackpot with wild dogs taking down an impala and fighting off a hyena.

Facilities

Now, about that major refurb they kept mentioning—it seems my memory isn’t as sharp as it used to be. Thankfully, I’ve got old photos to help me spot the differences. The updates in the rooms were subtle, but they really went to town on the main areas, especially the bar and dining room. They’ve kept the colonial vibe, which I’m all for—it keeps the charm intact while freshening up the essentials. They’ve opted for lighter colours too, which really brighten the place up.

Entering brings you into a living area with the bar besides it, but the lodge cleverly draws you to its edges, boasting abundant outdoor spaces that offer sweeping views of the river. A central firepit extends towards the water, flanked by numerous dining tables on either side. Inside, you’ll find a cosy dining room with a fireplace for those cooler evenings. Adjacent to this is a conservation room showcasing Singita’s impressive efforts in local preservation. For wine enthusiasts, there’s a wine cellar complete with a wine-pairing dining table, and just below that, a small games room.

The pool, however, is still unheated. So does that really count as a refurb? At least the internet is everywhere, which is a godsend. As a lone millennial traveler, missing a meal without checking the latest football scores feels almost criminal.

The gym features new TechnoGym equipment, including a cable machine and pull-up stations, with a total of five pieces of equipment, along with 2 bikes, 2 treadmills, 1 elliptical, and 1 rower, and the spa, which has two treatment rooms, is either conveniently or bizarrely located in the same building.

So, here’s the thing: this is a safari lodge we’re talking about. A place where you can have high-speed internet in the middle of nowhere, and all these amenities that would’ve been unthinkable a decade ago. I’m not here to knock it—far from it. It’s just that it feels a tad less spectacular compared to what Royal Portfolio has set up nearby.

Room

There are just 12 number of suites at Singita Ebony.  6 river-facing suites, 2 bush suites, a few suites for families that can be combined to create a villa that can host up to 4 adults and 4 children.

And that’s all I’ve got for you.  Thank you and goodnight.

The rooms at the lodge have largely remained the same, but they’re still quite pleasant. They’ve been intentionally designed with a rustic and authentic vibe—it wasn’t some freak accident that made them look this way. While I’m not usually a huge fan of that style, they pull it off well, and there was nothing lacking that left me wanting more. The walls are adorned with African artwork, reinforcing the overall theme of the property.

Also on the walls is air conditioning, which immediately increased the rooms appeal by 9,000%.

I stayed in a river-facing suite which actually faced directly into a hedge.  It didn’t, I just wanted to get the word count up and cause synthetic outrage.  It did indeed face a river.  The suite features a small, unheated pool on a spacious balcony, complete with an outdoor deck that has a shaded sofa, a coffee table, and a chair. The inviting weather makes the outdoor area a perfect spot to lounge, and the bright sunlight just pulls you outside. There’s also a yoga mat, two sun chairs, and a table set near the river’s edge for soaking up the views. The suite is open plan, but there’s a curtain you can draw for privacy to the bathroom area, which has ample space for luggage storage and includes both indoor and outdoor showers. The large bed inside faces the river, and next to it is an office area with a fireplace. They’ve moved the plug adapters away from the bed to a table nearby, a change chalked up to some idea of serenity and my idea of having to move my arse out of bed to charge my laptop.

The only part that feels a bit underwhelming is the bedroom-bathroom separator, which is just a rolled-up sheet, and the water pressure, which is disappointingly weak.

Service / Food

Service was really warm, courteous and welcoming.  They always knew my preferences and made sure I had some alcohol free options in my room and on the game drive – which tasted like licking piss of chalk, but the effort was there.  I had some fantastic chats with my guide and really hit it off with Dan, the lodge manager, even after he (temporarily) misplaced my coat. A shout-out to Dan (because I know you’re reading this).

The traditional “eat everything, never move” philosophy of safari is thankfully evolving. Mornings feature available snacks, with the fridge restocked twice daily. Lunch, referred to as brunch, offers a variety of options with four choices remaining constant daily and four others rotating. The updated menus are now lighter, a change I fully support. While the quality of the food was generally good, ranging from excellent to just okay, the offerings at Waterside were notably better.

The Good

• Accommodation
• Food
• Service

The Bad

• Competition offer a better product

The Luxurious

• Setting
• Sightings

Conclusion

Singita Ebony remains one of the best safari lodges.  If you’re thinking whether the refurb is significant enough to warrant a return, the answer is no.  But when is returning to a safari lodge ever a bad thing?  If you’re looking for a reason, sure, why not.  I do sometimes forget that even the most hardcore safari fans tend to come once every other year, not the five times a year that I’m doing.

I used to look at Singita as the undisputed kings of safari, but it’s a bit more nuanced than that.  The product at Waterside Lodge is better, but Singita offers private land which really cannot be undervalued.  Singita Ebony still roars, just not quite as loudly as it once did.  Having undisturbed viewings is truly wonderful.  At one point we just sat with a cheetah that was doing next to nothing for over an hour and it felt wonderful.  No phone signal, no interruptions, just being able to enjoy nature as god intended – in a vehicle, with a heated seat, enough food to outlast a pandemic and enough camera equipment to record a professional sporting event.

If this is your first or tenth safari, Singita Ebony will be worth a visit.